Synthesizer Bushings

"Saving the world's synths one bushing at a time"

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QUANTITY	PRICE	INSURED SHIPPING
Bag of 1000* (Each extra bag of 1000* lowers the price by a penny per bushing.)	$250 ($0.25 ea)	$12 - $30 US and Int'l
Bag of 500*	$150 ($0.30 ea)	$6 US $9 Int'l
Bag of 250*	$100 ($0.40 ea)	$6 US $9 Int'l
Individual	($0.50 ea)	$6 US $9 Int'l
* Very close to this number. You may get a few more, or less, or a few rejects. It's much easier for us to count, and it saves us having to charge a handling fee.

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July 2006 BUSHINGS ARE GONE! Please visit Arcsound

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These bushings are newly-manufactured, original Pratt-Read rubber key bushings. They arrive in a clear plastic, resealable bag, and are coated with a silicone lubricant and protectant. More specific information will be included in the instructions.

Please click "BUY NOW" or "email for international shipping options" and email us your shipping address and how many pieces you are interested in. When we receive it, we'll either email you back more information, or send you a confirmation email/payment request with the total. You can then send payment by money order or postal money order, or through Paypal (using direct transfer, Visa or MasterCard.) Please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. All sales are final.

Bushing replacements cost $1.00 - $2.00 a piece elsewhere on the net.

ABOUT THE BUSHING PROJECT

The main goal of this project is not to make money, but to offer an inexpensive means to our friends in the AH community who are interested in refurbishing their Pratt-Read keyboards. Because we're upgrading our keyboards, you can get in on the deal too, ordering in quantity. This will most likely be a ONE-TIME offer, as it will not make enough money to be an ongoing business. We have no desire to carry an inventory, so the order we place will very closely reflect the total number of orders we receive. Don't hesitate to order, as we will not be ordering for those who are "might be interested at some point." References available upon request. Ebay username is nateb71 and feedback is 100% positive.

HISTORY

Here's how all this came about. Myself and a couple friends have a number of synthesizers which could use new bushings. We also decided there's probably a good bunch of people in the AH community who are in a similar situation. Especially for those of us looking to refurbish a large number of old synthesizers, getting a great price on these bushings is essential. So we decided to look into having new bushings manufactured to the original specs. What we have now is a new replacement for the original parts, identical to remanufactured bushings sold by others. We have already installed a good bunch of these in several of our synthesizers, and we can promise you that the results are amazing! They behave and feel exactly like keyboards refurbished with other replacement bushings. The keyboards look and feel new again.

Best part: Because we are ordering direct and in bulk, you save over 50% off the lowest priced bushings offered anywhere on the net. In fact, at $0.30 per bushing, you're paying less than 1/3 the normal price of a replacement. Pretty cool, huh?

QUICK INSTALL

It is highly recommended that you replace ALL key bushings at once. Don't forget to note the polarity of the keyboard connector / ribbon cable. If removing the keysprings, WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! (or wear it anyways!) Bushings are pre-coated in a silicone lubricant. Use only Dow Corning DC 7 Release Compound if needed! Bushings have a top & bottom. Align the wider "Y" to the top side.

ABOUT THE BUSHINGS

These are remanufactured Pratt-Read (P-R) bushings, designed to work with a large number of Pratt-Read keyboards. However, they do not work with all P-R keyboards! See the list below for which keyboards work and which ones don't. The bushings are pre-coated with a silicone lubricant (Dow Corning DC 7) to extend the life of the rubber, and to make installation easier. If additional lubrication is needed, use only DC 7! Do not use any other lubricants, as they will ruin the bushings! Also avoid getting them dirty or dusty. When not in use, keep them in a closed resealable bag. The bushings have a top and bottom, so pay close attention during installation. The wider Y goes towards the top.

TOOLS

Medium Phillips or Flat screwdriver for opening the case and removing the keybed Small flat-blade screwdriver for removing plastic keytops Small razor utility knife (X-Acto, etc.)

OPTIONAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

• Protective eye goggles
• Pointed hobby "pin" tool (available at many hobby and arts & craft stores.)
• Vacuum (be careful not to vacuum up anything important!)
• Q-tips (for cleaning. don't leave behind any cotton bits!)
• Old soft towels or rags Plastic polish

CLEANING

If you decide to clean the plastic keytops, use only a mild solution of soap and water. Dirty or scratched keys can sometimes be polished using a plastic polish. Always test first in an inconspicuous area.

Instructions for all P-R keyboards which use this type of bushing:

1. First remove the keybed from the case. Having some soft towels or carpeting around is usually a good idea, in case you need to lay the instrument upside-down. Whichever way you decide to lay the instrument, be sure that it's laid flat, and evenly, so as not to exert too much pressure on a single knob, joystick, lever, etc. On most models this means:

2. Carefully open up the case.

3. Unscrew the keybed, which is typically attached to the bottom of the case using 4 larger screws. Unplug the connector or ribbon cable, noting the polarity or orientation. A small piece of tape, a pencil, or a marker can sometimes be helpful here.

4. Remove the entire keybed from the instrument case.

Most synthesizers can be fixed up without completely removing each key. Usually it's possible to only remove the plastic keytops, or even operate in place. If you do find that you need to remove an entire key, be very careful with the key-return springs. Use a needle-nose pliers to remove and re-install the springs, AND BE SURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION! since they sometimes shoot across the room!

5. Using a small razor knife, dental pick, or pointed hobby "pin" tool, cut off and scrape away the old bushing. Make sure that ALL debris is fully removed from each key.

6. Making sure the wider side of the bushing is facing up, install the new bushing by carefully sliding it over the metal key bar. The bushings shouldn't need any extra lubricant, but if they do, use only Dow Corning DC 7 release compound.

7. Continue until ALL key bars have new bushings installed. New bushings on all the keys will help ensure even keys, and a uniform feel.

8. Now it's time to put the instrument back together. Reattach the keybed to the instrument case. Reconnect the keyboard connector or ribbon cable, observing the correct polarity. Close up the instrument case, and enjoy your new keyboard!

Keyboards which are known to use these P-R bushings:

Keyboards which DO NOT use these P-R bushings:

ARP Odyssey:

The Whiteface Odyssey uses thin, lightweight springs which press against the gold-plated bus bars when a key is pressed. It's easiest to remove the screw which holds the plastic keytops to the metal keybars, and then remove the keytops, WHITE KEYS FIRST! After removing the plastic keytops, cut away the old bushings. Clean out and remove any debris. Install the new bushings. Reattach the plastic keytops (BLACK KEYS FIRST!)

NEW!!! Click HERE for an Odyssey Bushing Tutorital!

ARP 2500:

<< coming soon >>

EML-101:

<< coming soon >>

Micromoog:

<< coming soon >>

Minimoog:

The Minimoog also uses thin, lightweight springs which press against the gold-plated bus bars when a key is pressed. Its mechanical operation is a little different than that of the Odyssey, but the plastic keytop still attaches to the keybar with a screw. So first, remove the screws and plastic keytops (WHITE KEYS FIRST!) Cut away the old bushing. Clean and remove any debris. Install the new bushings. Reattach the plastic keytops (BLACK KEYS FIRST!)

Oberheim OB-1:

<< coming soon >>

Oberheim OB-SX:

<< coming soon >>

SCI Pro-One (J-wire):

The Pro-One comes in both a J-Wire version and a membrane version. The bushings will work on both versions. The Pro-One is a little different, in that the plastic keytop doesn't attach to the metal keybar with a screw. On the J-wire version, I found it easiest to just leave the key in place while changing bushings, so I wouldn't have to mess with the springs.

NEW!!! Click HERE for a SCI Pro-One Bushing Tutorital!

SCI Pro-One (membrane):

Since the membrane keyboard doesn't use the springs, the keys are removed a little more easily. It's probably best to remove each key, cut away the old bushing, thoroughly remove any debris, and reinstall the new bushing.

NEW!!! Click HERE for a SCI Pro-One Bushing Tutorital!

SCI Prophet-5

Click HERE for a SCI Prophet-5 Bushing Tutorial!

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